Saturday, November 8, 2008

Il Piano

Italians love the word "tranquilo" (as in tranquil). According to my phrasebook it means "quiet" but they use it to mean "calm" or "take it easy", except that calmly sing it several times (as they do most words) instead of using the irritatad tone most Americans have when they spit out "take it easy". A favorite synonym- and the name of the current farm where I am staying- is "piano" (pronounced not like the instrument but pya-no).

I am still in Umbria, near the town of Spoleto.

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Today is my day off, so I took the bus to town to gorge myself on the internet. There is not internet at the farm. I can walk to several villages, but they are true villages with ten, maximum twenty residents, and no shops. They all look like stone fortresses clustered on hilltops, but most residents are aging (average age 60-70) and the populations are dwindling. There is apparently one village at the bottom of the valley that has a post office and a bar. One day after I feed the horses, I am going to follow the trail through the woods and see if I can find it.

There are two horses and three donkeys on this farm, so I am happy as I can be. One of the horses is named Sorba, for the berry that also gave its name to the frozen dessert, sorbet. There is also a five month old donkey colt name Fico (fig); his nickname is Ficchissimo (making him the "most figgy", I guess). I am helping halter break him and teaching him to walk with a lead rope.

I am learning to identify a variety of wild greens: amaranto, mallow/malva, dandelion, chickweed, chicory, wild arugula, lamb's quarters, and more. Every morning the valley is full of mist: the house is high enough that we look over the clouds and see the mountains peaks floating like islands on the sea of fog. I have plans to hike out and find an abandoned town, Roccagelli, desserted before villages used cement. We start harvesting olives tomorrow or Monday. I am hoping they will be ready to go to the mill before I leave. I want to taste fresh squeezed oil, just off the presses....

That's all for now. More when I get back to Rome on the 16th or so (that is the next time I will have internet access).

PS Sorry the blog has been a feast or famine thing since I've arrived in Italy. As I mentioned, I haven't had internet access! But I appreciate your patience and love all of your replies. Keep 'em coming! And one day, if I have the time and cheap internet access (not here in Spoleto!), I promise some individual replies...

4 comments:

Unknown said...

Bri! I am so happy to hear from you and sad that your Roman holiday is coming to and end. Your experience sounds spectacular and makes me long for many many things, above all remoteness, which is so hard to find in this world. I hope that what you see and what you do there makes the kind of impression that leaves nostalgia in its wake; nostalgia is one of the sweetest feelings I know. Just one little comment about a word in your blog. Fico has an alternate meaning in Italian, it means good looking referring to a man. Fichissimo, obviously, means really really good looking. I wouldn't recommend using the feminine form of the word as it has another meaning all together...
Miss you so so much!
Giulia

Lori said...

Bri, it's great to hear from you! I have been anticipating your blog return. I love reading your stories and look forward to "drawing" the pictures in my mind of your descriptions. Take care and can't wait to hear more!

Anonymous said...

http://www.localitailpiano.it/index.htm has some information and pictures of the farm and family Bri is currently at. I think she may have a hard time leaving there. Dad

Anonymous said...

I talked to your mom at the football game tonight and she filled me in on your adventures. I am so happy that you are having such a great time and are taking advantage of these great opportunities! I love the blog!